Saturday, February 1, 2014

Trocadero by Max Factor c1938

Trocadero by Max Factor was launched in 1938, a fragrance whose name was borrowed directly from one of Hollywood’s most glamorous landmarks—the Café Trocadero nightclub. Perched on the Sunset Strip, the Trocadero was not just another club; it was the nightlife destination of the Golden Age of Hollywood, frequently described as the “meeting place of the stars.” This was where screen idols, directors, and society elites dined, danced, and posed for the flashbulbs of gossip columnists. By naming a perfume after such a glittering and exclusive locale, Max Factor immediately tied the fragrance to the glamour and prestige of Hollywood’s social scene. It was a clever marketing decision, drawing a direct connection between the brand, the nightlife of the rich and famous, and the aspirational allure that women across America wanted to share in. Max Factor himself, already known as the “father of modern makeup” and makeup artist to the stars, had strong ties to Hollywood’s inner circle, making the fragrance both an authentic and symbolic extension of his world.

The word “Trocadero” is French, pronounced as "Troh-kah-dare-oh". It originally refers to the Palais du Trocadéro in Paris, a monumental building constructed for the 1878 World’s Fair, which came to symbolize cosmopolitan sophistication and cultural prestige. By the 1930s in America, the name evoked not only Parisian elegance but also a sense of dazzling nightlife, thanks to the Hollywood nightclub that adopted the name. For women hearing the word “Trocadero” in 1938, it would conjure images of dance floors shimmering with sequins, satin gowns brushing against polished floors, and the chance of brushing shoulders with Clark Gable or Joan Crawford. The emotions it carried were excitement, glamour, exclusivity, and a dash of romance.

The late 1930s was a transitional time in both fashion and perfumery. America was recovering from the Great Depression, yet the entertainment industry thrived, providing escapism through cinema and nightlife. Women’s fashions shifted toward streamlined silhouettes with long evening gowns, fur wraps, and sculpted hairstyles, all of which emphasized poise and elegance. In perfumery, the aldehydic floral style—sparkling, effervescent, and often powdery—dominated, made popular by Chanel No. 5 and its many successors. At the same time, spicier and woodier notes began creeping into women’s perfumes, foreshadowing the bolder fragrances of the 1940s.

For women of the era, a perfume called “Trocadero” would have carried instant cachet. It suggested an evening out filled with sophistication and glamour, even if the wearer had never stepped foot inside the famed Hollywood nightclub. To own and wear it was to step into a fantasy, aligning oneself with the elegance of movie stars and the cosmopolitan sheen of Parisian nightlife.

Early advertisements describe the perfume as “lilting,” suggesting a light, playful floral aldehyde composition. This likely meant a sparkling citrus and aldehydic opening, paired with a bouquet of delicate florals at the heart—jasmine, rose, perhaps lily of the valley—layered with a subtle hint of spice for intrigue. Such a construction would have mirrored the perfume trends of the time rather than breaking away from them, yet the clever association with Hollywood’s Café Trocadero gave the fragrance a unique identity. In essence, Trocadero was not just a scent, but an experience in a bottle: the glamour of Paris, the sparkle of Hollywood, and the promise of stepping into the dazzling world of the stars.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Trocadero by Max Factor is classified as a floral aldehydic fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehyde C-10, aldehyde C-11, aldehyde C-12, bergamot, lemon, limonene, neroli, linalool
  • Middle notes: methyl anthranilate, jasmine, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, rose, phenylethyl alcohol, lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, carnation, eugenol, isoeugenol, ylang ylang, ionones 
  • Base notes: sandalwood, coumarin, oakmoss absolute, vetiver, musk, musk ketone, musk ambrette, civetone, vanilla, vanillin

Scent Profile:


Opening a bottle of Trocadero (1938), one is greeted with the sparkling brilliance that only a floral aldehydic composition can give. The very first impression comes from aldehydes C-10, C-11, and C-12—synthetic molecules that in perfume create an airy, fizzy lift, at once soapy, effervescent, and slightly waxy, like the shimmer of champagne bubbles. They don’t smell like flowers themselves, but they electrify the floral heart to come, giving it a halo of radiance. These aldehydes are seamlessly tied to natural citrus: the brisk bitterness of Calabrian bergamot and the tart freshness of Sicilian lemon, both rich in limonene, a natural terpene that bursts with brightness. Neroli from Tunisia adds a honeyed floral sparkle, green yet tender, while linalool—both natural (from citrus and rosewood) and synthetic—softens the sharp edges, wrapping the opening in a velvety, lightly floral smoothness. Together, these notes form a glittering overture, fresh yet sophisticated.

As the perfume develops, the heart blossoms into an opulent floral bouquet. Methyl anthranilate lends a sweet, grapey nuance that evokes orange blossom in bloom, while jasmine absolute from Egypt infuses the composition with its narcotic, indolic richness. This jasmine is lifted by benzyl acetate (fruity, sweet, like ripe bananas) and benzyl salicylate (soft, solar, slightly green) which extend the longevity of the floral impression, like sunlight warming petals. Rose absolute from Bulgaria deepens the heart with its velvety, honeyed richness, while phenylethyl alcohol provides a gentle, dewy rose nuance that softens the natural rose’s intensity. To this floral core is added the crystalline green sweetness of lily of the valley, recreated by hydroxycitronellal, a synthetic molecule prized for its delicate, transparent, springlike character.

A spicy flourish gives the heart dimension and intrigue: carnation absolute, with its clove-like warmth, is amplified by eugenol and isoeugenol, lending a peppery heat and soft piquancy. Ylang ylang from the Comoros folds in a creamy, banana-like floral tone, lush and exotic, while ionones contribute a soft violet-powder effect, at once woody and floral, linking the florals to the deeper base. This middle stage feels “lilting,” exactly as the early ads promised—floral, playful, sparkling, with a spicy undercurrent that flirts with sophistication.

The drydown rests on a foundation both warm and sensual. Mysore sandalwood gives the base a creamy, milky-woody richness, unmatched by other sandalwoods for its soft depth. Coumarin (from tonka beans) layers in a haylike, almond-vanilla sweetness, blending with Madagascar vanilla and vanillin to create a gourmand caress. Oakmoss absolute from the Mediterranean anchors the fragrance with a damp, mossy greenness that adds both gravitas and a slight chypre-like shadow, balanced by the smoky, earthy dryness of Java vetiver.

The animalics add the final, seductive nuance: musk ketone and musk ambrette (early synthetic musks) provide a soft, powdery, enveloping warmth, while civetone lends a subtle, sensual animalic growl—just enough to make the florals feel alive and intimate. These are cushioned by a faint touch of ambergris-like sweetness from the musky accord. The whole base feels both clean and sensual, polished yet suggestive, a signature of perfumes designed for the glamour of late 1930s Hollywood.

In the end, Trocadero unfolds as a radiant floral aldehydic with citrus sparkle, a plush bouquet of florals touched by spice, and a soft, mossy-woody base warmed with vanilla and musk. It was elegant, “lilting,” and perfectly suited to the world it was born into—a fragrance meant for starlets and socialites, stepping out into the Hollywood night.



Product Line:


Trocadero was marketed in a format that reflected both accessibility and glamour. It was released as a “Parfum Cologne,” a hybrid strength that carried the sophistication of a parfum while maintaining the refreshing brightness of a cologne—an ideal choice for women who wanted a fragrance that could be worn day into evening. Max Factor cleverly positioned Trocadero not only as a perfume but as part of a lifestyle, making it both approachable and aspirational for a wide audience.

The fragrance was often sold alongside Cocoanut Grove, another Max Factor creation, in beautifully packaged gift sets priced at $2.00. These sets invited consumers to indulge in a touch of Hollywood elegance without excessive expense, making them perfect for birthdays, holidays, or self-purchase. When purchased individually, a bottle cost $1.00, a price point that placed it within reach of the average woman while still maintaining an air of exclusivity.

By pairing Trocadero with Cocoanut Grove, Max Factor was drawing on the allure of Hollywood’s nightlife and star culture—two perfumes named after glamorous nightclubs, offered together in a way that echoed the social excitement of an evening out. This marketing strategy reinforced Max Factor’s reputation not only as a cosmetics innovator but as a curator of Hollywood glamour, bringing the sparkle of the silver screen and the scent of the nightclub into the dressing rooms of women across America.



Fate of the Fragrance:


Trocadero by Max Factor was eventually discontinued, though the exact date of its withdrawal from the market remains uncertain. What is known is that the perfume was still being sold as late as 1959, more than two decades after its original launch in 1938. Its longevity on store shelves reflects both its popularity and the enduring appeal of its floral aldehydic style, which aligned perfectly with mid-century tastes. Even as new perfume fashions emerged in the 1950s, Trocadero maintained a place among Max Factor’s offerings, a testament to its charm and its association with Hollywood glamour. Today, surviving bottles are rare, serving as nostalgic reminders of a fragrance once tied to the elegance and allure of Hollywood’s golden age.

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